Terrifying, fun, exciting, exhilarating, rough, smooth, glass, inside, backside and freedom are words that come to mind on one of my former favorite fun activities. I'm referring to surfing of course.
I learned to surf late in life, well, say compared to the 5 year old kids I see on the water starting with short boards in camps. I believe I got my own daughter up and surfing by the age of 6.
My board was a custom Tim Chew 9 foot beauty with lovely rails that I called the 'sofa' because it was a comfy easy ride on days with good swells and clean water.
Mine were soul surfer rides with long smooth cut backs and gliding top to bottom with a minimum of effort.
There were days I got smacked in the head and knocked off my board by an oncoming wave simply because I was mesmerized by the sunlight drifting towards the horizon in the distance. Beauty out on the water at eye level is a wonderful perspective.
This piece though refers to the that moment when you are paddling hard and you got in front and in the wave and you better have your balance, your rhythm in form as your soles hit the sex wax. You focus, you commit. If you don't, well, you are gonna have some serious collateral damage to deal with in the aftermath of going over the falls!
The art is 25 inches by 25 inches acrylic on newsprint with type added once into the computer files. The future of this piece will be oil on canvas 4 feet by4 feet.
More to come......
All art and words copyright Alan Phillips 2015
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